Unpicking fashion’s impact on deforestation

It is almost four years since 130 leaders, representing more than 90% of the world’s forests, committed to work together to halt and reverse forest loss and land degradation by 2030 at COP26 in Glasgow. 

Since then we have seen deforestation move up corporate, regulatory and public agendas, yet data shows that despite this increased focus, the world is off track on meeting targets. In fact, if deforestation were a country, it would be the world’s third largest emitter of carbon (1). Deforestation also denies us vital ecosystem services such as carbon capture and storage, global scale cooling through shade cover, improved soil health and biodiversity rich habitats.

This combined risk makes deforestation one of the most important and complex challenges of the transition to a net-zero and an industry contributing towards a nature-positive future. At the same time, existing deforestation goals, targets, and guidance are often not tailored to the fashion sector or specific materials, making it challenging for brands to know where to start and how to drive measurable improvements. To unpick that complexity and start to chart a pathway for brands we have partnered with Conservation International.

Mapping the Challenge

Since the end of the last ice age — 10,000 years ago — the world has lost around one-third of its forests. Two billion hectares of forest — an area twice the size of the United States — has been cleared to grow crops, raise livestock, and produce fuelwood (2). Globally, an estimated 488 million hectares of tree cover have been lost since 2000, with losses more than doubling from 13.4 million hectares in 2001 to 28.3 million hectares in 2023 (3).

Through geospatial mapping we have identified the most affected regions and begun to explore fashion’s role. It has helped reveal where fashion’s raw materials production is happening and where there is crossover with places suffering deforestation. 

Mapping historic tree cover loss has been vital to establish baselines, understand the impact of forecast growth in materials consumption, and opportunities for restoration. In addition, mapping areas where multiple commodities are sourced, has helped reveal opportunities for collective action and the potential for geographic approaches.

It has also emphasised the potential for cross-sector collaboration. For example, while leather is generally a by-product of cattle-farming for food (meaning cattle are not primarily reared for leather), we can see that significant past deforestation has occurred in leather producing geographies, including Brazil and Argentina; future predicted deforestation is especially at risk in Brazil and Colombia. Cotton is also not generally considered a big direct driver of deforestation, but there may be adjacencies or developing hotspots that are worth a deeper dive. In Brazil, for example, cotton is often the second crop of the season after soybeans, a known direct driver of conversion.

That crossover does not necessarily mean fashion is directly driving forest loss in those areas, but it does help prioritize where to assess our relationship with deforestation and focus industry efforts.

Historic Tree Cover loss

This map shows past tree cover loss (excluding non-forest/other natural lands) within areas that are likely origins of agricultural raw materials for the fashion industry (cotton, leather, wool, cashmere). It does not include MMCFs due to the complexities and opaqueness of MMCF supply chains

Countries With Overlapping Sourcing Areas

This map shows the likely agricultural raw material sourcing countries for leather, cotton, wool, and cashmere. MMCFs and rubber are not included due to data set challenges, however their inclusion would increase the overlap. 

Countries in which 3 or more raw materials are sourced (outlined in black): Argentina, Australia, China, India, Indonesia, Iran, South Africa, Türkiye, Uzbekistan.

Key Geographies by Material

This map shows the likely agricultural raw material sourcing countries for leather, cotton, wool, and cashmere. MMCFs and rubber are not included due to data set challenges, however their inclusion would increase the overlap. 

Countries in which 3 or more raw materials are sourced (outlined in black): Argentina, Australia, China, India, Indonesia, Iran, South Africa, Türkiye, Uzbekistan.

6 Immediate Steps Brands can Take

Through our work with Conservation International, we aim to inform industry-wide strategies addressing deforestation. The urgency of this issue demands an immediate response however, and we believe there are a number of actions necessary to work toward Deforestation and Conversion Free (DCF) outcomes, which can already be taken. The steps are not always linear and can be addressed simultaneously.

• Assess and prioritise deforestation & conversion risks and impact by mapping available data to develop risk assessments. If this is not available, work with industry data to identify focus areas for improved information.
• Set internal targets, policies & supplier guidance: working to shift to deforestation and conversion free sourcing without displacing natural ecosystem loss by pulling out of geographies. Ensuring companies have overarching “no conversion of natural ecosystems” and specific material policies that outline cut off dates, verification systems, and compliance & grievance mechanisms.
• Engage suppliers by strengthening communications and awareness raising around deforestation and conversion free requirements.
• Promote traceability ideally to farm level, understanding that supply shed approaches are generally necessary in bulk systems and leaning on verified supplier reporting as well as, where necessary, certified raw materials.
• Invest in raw material availability through on the ground investments and partnerships to build up availability of supply.
• Remediate impact through reforestation or protection of existing forests in pertinent areas.

Sources:

1 https://www.globalforestwatch.org/blog/insights/by-the-numbers-the-value-of-tropical-forests-in-the-climate-change-equation/

2 https://ourworldindata.org/deforestation

3 https://gfr.wri.org/forest-extent-indicators/forest-loss